![]() Over-temperature Cut-off Safety Circuit |
* Updated June 2, 2001 *
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Preventing meltdowns in your studio
An oven meltdown can be a very ugly thing, especially if the oven is full of your work when it happens. Here is an inexpensive way to minimize the chance of this happening to you.
If a temperature controller with an alarm output relay is controlling an oven, a high temperature limit switch can be added very easily. This way if the power control SSR (or relay) malfunctions and locks on for any reason, the alarm circuit will cut the power and keep the temperature at a level which will protect the oven - if not the work inside it - from damage. There is a drawback to using this system though. If there is a malfunction in the temperature controller itself, or in the thermocouple connected to it, then this setup might NOT protect the oven from a meltdown. The safest way of protecting an oven is with a totally independent high temperature limit controller and thermocouple, and in some areas that may be the only system that will meet code requirements. But, where permitted, this is a decent alternative to spending the extra money for a separate limit controller. A good quality temperature controller is the most reliable link in a control system, so the chances of one failing and causing a meltdown are slim. And even the cheapest digital controllers available today offer thermocouple break detection, which - when programmed properly - will turn off the control circuit if the thermocouple breaks. Not including human error, 99 times out of 100 an oven meltdown is caused by a failure of the oven control relay (SSR or mechanical relay). According to Murphy's Law, the chances of a relay failing in the "on" position are directly proportional to the value of what is in your oven...
The drawing below is obviously very basic. It assumes a 240V single phase oven being controlled by a Solid State Relay, driven by a temperature controller. There are many different controllers and control hookups possible, so this may not be the same as your particular setup. The same general principles should apply, though.
In the drawing below the alarm output circuit in the controller is connected to the control coil in the contactor. When this circuit is energized, the coil turns the contactor on, power flows through the contactor, and the SSR can turn the oven elements on or off depending on the control signals received from the temperature controller. If the alarm circuit shuts the contactor off, it doesn't matter what the SSR is doing, no power will reach the elements and the oven will stay off. In this setup the alarm circuit in the controller is energized when NOT in an alarm condition an de-energized when an alarm is tripped. Tripping an alarm removes power from the contactor coil and shuts off power to the elements.
With the circuit wired this way and the temperature controller alarm programmed correctly, the alarm circuit will shut down the power if the temperature goes above a pre-set limit. Depending on the features available in the particular model of controller used, the alarm could be latching, which will simply kill the power to the elements and keep it off until the controller is manually reset, or non-latching, which will kill the power whenever the temperature reaches the limit, but allow it back on once it falls below a preset temperature again. One needs to decide which is appropriate for his/her process, depending on what the controller being used offers (some controllers offer additional options, too).
This is about the simplest way to set up this system. However, with just a little extra effort and wiring, a few more desirable features can be added. One I recommend is a door switch, which shuts off power to the elements whenever the oven door is opened. This is an especially good idea when using SSR's, because SSR's (and SCR's) leak electricity even when they are turned off. They don't leak much, but under the right circumstances it can be enough to do some serious damage to someone. It is very easy to wire a door switch into the alarm circuit controlling the contactor (which is what I have done on my glass furnace). Another possible addition is an alarm buzzer or other warning device that will alert you in case the alarm is tripped. If you are worried about something happening when you are away from the studio you could even wire up an automatic telephone dialer (available at Radio Shack and elsewhere) to let someone know there's a problem.

The diagram above shows a very simple control system with a 240 Volt oven circuit (120VAC on each of two power legs). In order to control a full 240 Volt circuit, only one SSR needs to be used, and only one of the two 120 Volt legs needs to be connected to it. However, for safety, BOTH power legs need to be controlled by the CONTACTOR and should also be protected by appropriate fusing (not shown) to protect personnel. Protecting the SSR itself with fusing might appear to be a good idea, but is fairly pointless due to the fact that the special fuses required cost more than a new SSR.
Getting back to the diagram - each 120 Volt leg connects to one power input "pole" of the contactor. On the power output side, one leg goes straight into the oven and connects to one end of the heating element. The other 120V leg goes from the contactor into one output side of the SSR (which must be rated at 240VAC output or higher for this circuit). The other output side of the SSR connects to the other end of the heating element in the oven.
The oven controlling relay need not necessarily be an SSR. It could be a mechanical contactor or an SCR as well. These too can fail in the "on" position and would benefit from an overtemperature safety cut-off circuit like this. The best way to keep SSR's and SCR's from failing is to keep them as cool as possible by mounting them on an appropriate heat sink and using heat sink grease (thermal compound) to ensure good heat transfer between the SSR and the heat sink. A small cooling fan to cool the heat sink is also a good idea for an extra margin of protection.
And, of course, the ubiquitous weasel clause:
The above is for informational purposes only. It is NOT a recommendation to build a control safety system this way. Improper installation or use of the equipment mentioned can be extremely dangerous. Seek professional advice on safety procedures and equipment before beginning. I am NOT a trained electrician or engineer. I'm just someone who did this himself in order to save a few bucks (and happens to have a website where you can see how I did it). So, if you do something stupid (like doing this yourself) and get hurt, don't sue me. I don't have enough money to make it worth your while, anyway.
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